
SLUM DIARY- NAIROBI, Richard Newey
Friday - 11 April 2003
We land at Nairobi airport at about 0630, tired
as expected, stained with coffee unexpected as Russ
decided to throw his over me during the flight. Now
the fun begins! Collecting the bags proved interesting
four of us with 200 kg's of clothes, pens, pencils
etc divided into 14 bags, deciding which were our
14 unmarked bags proved time consuming.
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Our Kenyan friends Charlie, Roheama
and Elisha were all extremely pleased to see us and
in particular Russ. Firstly we deposited our gear
at the church guesthouse, our home for three days
and settled for a Kenyan breakfast of traditional
porridge, fruit and bread. On with the day first we
were off to Charlie and Roheama's to meet their children
Janet and Amos. Their home consists of a room three
metres square in a concrete walled block of many other
families in a similar situation. Slums as I was to
learn have different grades of squalor and poverty;
in comparison to the worst this is about two grades
up. Elisha has no home and stays with friends within
the local slums. Walking the streets to the kid's
school, shit flows past in little streams; Nicky was
beginning to regret her decision to wear flip-flops!
Children want to touch you wherever you walk, they
run off to tell their mates and then more play the
game of touching the muzungo, Swahili for white men.
They all shout 'how are you, how are you' Roheama
tells us that this is the only English they know and
they shout it at all muzungo's irrespective of their
nationality.
Roheama is from Tanzania and we talked
about Kilimanjaro, stupidly I asked her if she had
climbed it. She described the torment of their existence,
each day is about finding food and surviving, the
thought of relaxing or climbing a mountain is a concept
that she could not contemplate. Life for her is a
day-to-day struggle. I though about how in western
society many moan and whinge yet they are blinkered
to the real hardships that life can throw at you.
Off to Kibera now allegedly the second
largest slum in Africa, 1 million people crammed into
an area 2 miles by ½ mile set within a valley.
Some families have lived in Kibera for 2-3 generations
they know nothing else. We met up with the team from
Vision
Africa, Reverend John and Vera Packard and
Deborah Ross who we followed deep into the slum. The
road or should I say track continually through you
across the truck due to the deep ruts, they would
not be passable in the rainy season. People stare
at you from the side of the road perhaps questioning
why we were here, it is difficult to feel inconspicuous.
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We walked further along small tracks
with huts crammed on either side, our Kenyan friends
act as our bodyguards and I think we are seen as easy
prey. The walls are made of mud and cow dung, roofs
of corrugated tin. Later I was to learn of children
who become unable to walk through jiggers (a tick
like creature that lives in cow dung), they burrow
into their feet causing infections and sores; of course
many children simply have no shoes. The environment
that these people live can only be described as pathetic.
We arrived at a school and greeted by
the teachers. Girls probably aged between 5 and 12
years old then treated us to a 20-minute dance show.
Traditional dancing and singing about their plight,
the threat of AIDS and requesting our help. Massive
amounts of energy, talent and great bum wiggling!
I cannot over emphasize the parody of the environment
outside the door to these children who were giving
it their all, bright, vivacious and smiling. Very
humbling and emotional, whilst I did not appreciate
at the time this experience to me was the most touching
of the trip. It was on the flight home I decided that
I wanted to help the young girl who had led the dancing.
They all need help yet I cannot help them all.
We then walked onto another school called
school of hope. Children here are given basic education
up to 8 years old then nothing. You cant change the
world but all this certainly makes you question the
greed and selfishness of many, why do western governments
not want to cancel third world debt, why is interest
on average 53 times that of developed countries- the
list goes on. The day made me realise that whatever
projects we do they need to be sustainable, we need
to give them a chance in life, basic education is
a start but it is not enough.
Saturday 12 April 2003
Early start to a hectic day, first we visit a
rescue centre for destitute and orphaned children.
Here you can see it in some children's faces how they
have been abused, most children smile, here they did
not, insular and scared. We are told many are orphaned
through AIDS however they do not test if the children
have the virus, I feel uncomfortable at this, yet
later I think why test if you do not have the drugs
to do anything about it. One of the girls is wearing
a Newcastle top with 'Shearer' on the back, I immediately
think of writing to him.
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Our next stop is deep in another slum,
Colin McRae would be proud of our driver for getting
us in and out of this place. This is real shitty slum;
an open sewer runs across the bottom of a slope, leading
to it is just piles of human waste with goats and
dogs scavenging. Happy children in a small courtyard
greet us; they hop across a stream of sewerage discharged
from the adjacent building. The buildings here are
falling down, upstairs the timber floors creak and
the balcony rails barely support washing let alone
one of us. There are five hundred children staying
here, 9 to a double mattress with another 9 tiered
below, they try and sought those who may wet the bed
to sleep on the low level, again it is a pitiful existence.
However the lady who runs this home is a real character,
very passionate, genuine and proud of her children
and rightly so. We play for a while skipping with
a rope full of knots, the children are fascinated
with our video; they play and dance for the camera.
On now to the Imani centre, this was
established some 20 years ago from nothing it is very
impressive. They take in abandoned children of all
ages, educate them and give them life-skills the children
run the centre. Local employers are keen to offer
employment, they know the children are well educated
and also wish to gain positive publicity.
To finish the day we have a traditional
Kenyan meal with Charlie and Roheama doing the honours,
Roheama says she is embarrassed when fly's swarm in,
they are proud of what they have. This is surreal
here I am in a slum eating a fantastic meal yet outside
the door is just depravation and poverty.
Sunday - 13 April 2003
Up early for an important day, we leave
by 0700 hours to visit Great Rift Valley. Having been
in Nairobi for two days with its crammed streets and
population it was incredible to see the wide-open
spaces and beauty of real Kenya. Janet and Amos had
never experienced anything like this, they had never
been anywhere to relax and enjoy the surroundings,
this was something that simply their lives did not
permit. Later we all had ice cream, I wondered how
many western children had to wait until the age of
10 to have their first ice cream. It was truly heart
warming to see their faces today.
Later we visit Seed of Hope a
centre run by Vision
Africa. We arrive to take part in a welcome
dance, see the video unfortunately we just don't have
what it takes when it comes to bum - jiggling! Seed
of Hope is a training centre that offers life-skills
and vocational training to young girls to give them
a chance in the community to work. I feel this is
so important, many of the places we visited are touching
but just do not have the resources and ultimately
money to make a sustainable difference to the children's
lives. Vision
Africa does achieve their aim of 'giving
a child a future'.
Three days is no where near long enough
to truly understand all the problems, however you
cant begin to appreciate the plight of the children
until you have seen it for yourself. In three days
we came up with many ideas, I had to continually remind
myself that we cant change the world but we can make
a difference to some children's lives. In partnership
with Vision
Africa we are going to support destitute or
orphaned children through education and provide them
life-skills - it is a start, small to us but I hope
it will provide some 'Opportunity not Charity'.
As I am typing this (a week later) I
have spoken to Russ in Kenya, we have 7 children.
He has seen two sisters today, their parents have
died and their uncle has been abusing them, they are
insular and frightened, we will help them.